Switzerland. The destination had been on our bucket list for a while, but other travel, typically to warmer, sunnier climes during long Michigan winters, had always bumped it out of the top spot. This year my wife and I both celebrated the half-century mark and decided it was the perfect excuse to finally make this dream trip happen.
As we began our planning, we needed to determine what type of adventure we were looking for...what did we want to get out of our travel to Switzerland? Together we agreed that we wanted to see as much of the country as we could squeeze into our limited time, and both placed a heavy emphasis on outdoor recreation, hiking, and mountains while also wanting to sample the local cuisine and absorb the historic/cultural aspects of some of the cities.
So, after a lot of research and planning, we (okay, okay, it was mostly Joy) built an itinerary that crisscrossed the country (five locations) over nine days in August. Our travels had us flying into Zurich, traveling over to Weissbad/Appenzell, then down to the Jungfrau Region region of the Bernese Oberland, specifically Interlaken and Grindelwald, then down to Zermatt, back up to Lucerne (Luzerne) and then back to Zurich to fly home.
We left Michigan on a Friday afternoon and arrived in Zurich mid-day on Saturday. After a whirlwind eight-day tour that included hiking, paragliding, sightseeing, eating, and drinking (plus a little relaxing), we flew home late morning on Sunday and arrived back in Michigan around 9 PM local time.
Heading into a trip like this I wondered if it would meet the high expectations we had set during the research and planning. I can confirm that Switzerland lived up to the hype – it was one of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful places I have ever traveled – the postcards and pictures don't come close to doing it justice. It really is that incredible.
Below I will walk you through a brief day-by-day breakdown of our travels. If you are considering a trip to Switzerland, this itinerary can provide a starting point for your planning or at least help you identify certain areas or experiences you might be interested in.
At the very end I will share some general Switzerland travel tips/insights that can aid in your preparation.
Weissbad/Appenzell/Wasserauen:
Saturday: After landing in Zurich and picking up our rental car (more on this at the end) we made the one-hour drive to Weissbad where we had booked ourselves at the Hotel Belvedere.
Hotel Belvedere was a quaint countryside property that feels most like an American bed and breakfast. The Belvedere provided convenient parking, and though our third-floor room was small, it was very clean, had its own bathroom with modern updates, and offered bucolic hillside views. The property itself was a bit quirky and cluttered (think of a Grandma with a collector's habit type house) especially the dining area, which also operated as the de facto "check-in," but it served our purposes well.
As with most lodging in Switzerland the Belvedere offered breakfast included with your stay – yogurts, fresh breads, meats and cheeses, granola, and coffee and juice. We also had one dinner at the hotel and found the food to be authentic and filling. The proprietor spoke very little English, but with a little back and forth, we were eventually able to sort things.
The Appenzall area was on our itinerary for two very specific reasons: Berggasthaus Aescher, and the scenic and very popular Schäfler Ridge hike (a quick Google search will yield hundreds of results).
Saturday afternoon was a bit gray and foggy with on-and-off drizzle, but after we checked in and dropped our luggage, we made the 15-minute drive from our hotel to the village of Appenzall. Appenzell is located in Appenzell Innerrhoden, the smallest Swiss canton.
Just outside of town we paid for parking and rode the Ebenalp cable car (Wasserauen cable car) up the mountain. From where the lift left us atop the Ebenalp, we hiked the trail downhill then through a damp and dimly lit prehistoric cave and the 400-year-old Wildkirchli cave church – where hermit monks lived and worshipped for two centuries. From there is was just a short hike to our destination: Berggasthaus Aescher (Aescher Cliffside Guesthouse) the famous mountain guesthouse and restaurant built into the side of the cliffs at about 5,000 feet.
On the deck we enjoyed local brews, a fresh charcuterie board (including the famous Appenzeller Cheese), and topped it off carrot cake and coffee while taking in the intermittent views of the valley, the Alpstein mountain range, and Seealpsee Lake.
Interlaken:
Sunday: Sunday was the day we had planned for our hike of Schäfler Ridge, but we woke to rain, low clouds, and zero visibility. A quick check of the forecast told us the conditions were not going to improve throughout the day. We were disappointed, but instead of hiking in the rain with no views, we decided to have breakfast and then get an early start on travel to our next destination, Interlaken.
Interlaken is a traditional resort town in the mountainous Bernese Oberland region of central Switzerland. Built on a narrow stretch of valley, between the emerald-colored waters of Lake Thun and Lake Brienz, it features old timber houses and parkland on either side of the Aare River. Its surrounding mountains with dense forests, alpine meadows, and glaciers offer numerous hiking trails.
We would be staying two nights in Interlaken at hotel Salzano. Salzano was a beautiful chalet hotel that featured an award-winning spa and a Michelin-rated restaurant just outside the main bustle of town (but within walking distance if you want to make the trek).
The room was clean and modern and offered a balcony adorned with flowers in the Swiss tradition. The spa featured numerous saunas, a Swarovski steam bath, relaxation room with fireplace, and garden area with infinity whirlpool. A large breakfast with a wide variety of offerings was included with the stay and the dinner at their on-site restaurant was one of our finest of the trip.
After a little spa time and a walk through the town of Interlaken, we decided to make the short drive to the scenic city of Lauterbrunnen to spend the rest of the afternoon and evening.
Often described as "a whole lot of Switzerland in a small space" Lauterbrunnen lies in a valley of dramatic beauty between Interlaken and the Jungfrau Massif. It's bordered by steep, rocky cliffs, features 72 waterfalls (including the famous 900+ foot-high Staubbach Falls), and provides stunning views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Lauterbrunnen is postcard-perfect and has pretty much everything that makes Switzerland special, all in one place. But it's also busy, with a lot of tourists. We wandered the town and then took dinner on the covered deck at Restaurant Schützen for a sampling of the local fair.
Monday: Monday we planned to hike to the Aletsch Glacier - the largest (and probably most popular) glacier in the Alps with a length of about 14 miles. The Aletsch Glacier is one of the many glaciers located between the cantons of Bern and Valais on the Bernese Alps, located east of the Gemmi Pass. The whole area is considered to be the largest glaciated area in western Eurasia.
To get to the Aletsch Glacier from Interlaken, we drove two hours, crossing the scenic Grimsel Pass (which is worth experiencing on its own), to the Betten Talstation near Fiesch. We had one minor navigational detour thanks to Google Maps, and ended up on a very narrow mountain pass in the wrong direction, but once we figured it out we were back on track. From the Betten Talstation we took the cablecar to the beautiful pedestrian-only village of Bettmeralp to begin our three-mile, 2,300-foot elevation-gain hike to the glacier. The day began cloudy at the lower elevations, but as we climbed the views began opening up. The Aletsch Galcier is other-worldy beautiful with stunning views (including the Matterhorn) and is, in my opinion, a must-see when visiting the country.
After hiking to various viewpoints along the glacier, we ate a quick snack that we had packed, made a short visit to the Bettmerhorn Panorama Restaurant, and then to stay on schedule (our unexpected detour had eaten up some time and we had dinner reservations back at our hotel in Interlaken), rode the Bettmerhorn gondola down (versus the round-trip hike) then walked through the town back to our original cablecar that returned us to the Betten Talstation, and drove back to Interlaken. It was a full day.
Tuesday: For Tuesday we had beautiful weather and planned to hike a slightly lesser-known route up to Tanzbodeli out of the village of Gimmelwald, which you access via cablecar out of Stechelberg (near Lauterbrunnen).
Tanzbodeli literally translates as "dance floor" – it is a beautiful overlook atop a flat, grassy plateau that sits just beneath the Spitzhorn and offers jaw-dropping, 360-degree panoramic views of the high peaks towering above the Lauterbrunnen and Sefinen Valleys.
On a clear day, across the plateau, you can see the Abeni Flue and Mittaghorn rising above Lauterbrunnen. At the end of the valley there are spectacular views of the Breithorn, Grosshorn, Tschingelhorn, and Ellstabhorn and the plummeting Schmadribachfall (waterfall). It’s a visual smorgasbord of valleys, glaciers, water, and jagged snow-covered peaks.
This outing began with an easy 15-minute stroll through the village, before descending to a valley, crossing a small river, and then heading uphill for the last couple of miles, gaining nearly 3,000 vertical feet in the process. This hike was definitely less crowded than some of the others, and though it was fairly short (just under four miles, one way) it was quite steep, rocky, and decently strenuous. Due to some uncertainty with the route, we elected to do this hike as an out-and-back versus a loop (which is an option). It was a full-day adventure. We packed water (could have used more) but no snacks, so back in the village after our hike we grabbed Gelato before our ride back down.
Grindelwald:
Tuesday evening: after our hike to Tanzbobeli we drove from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald, our next destination, and checked in at Hotel Blumlisalp, a very traditional Swiss chalet and restaurant that offered unbelievable views right from our balcony.
Grindelwald is a pearl of a mountain village with a rich history, nestled in the Swiss Alps. It is known for its trio of mountains: the Jungfrau, the Monch, and the Eiger and has a long tradition of alpinism.
The Eiger is likely the most famous of the group and rises to 13,015 feet overlooking Grindelwald and is one of the most emblematic sights of the Swiss Alps. While the northern side of the mountain rises more than 10,000 ft above the two valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, the southern side faces the large glaciers of the Jungfrau-Aletsch area.
The most notable feature of the Eiger is its famous, nearly 5,900-foot, north face of rock and ice, named Eiger-Nordwand, Eigerwand or just Nordwand; it is the largest north face in the Alps.
We unpacked and made the short drive to downtown Grindelwald to visit a few of the shops and enjoy dinner. We had beer and our most American meal of the trip (smash burger, truffle fries, and fried chicken) on the terrace overlooking the Eiger North Face at Basecamp Restaurant. Then we topped it off with desert and coffee as the light began to fade from the sky.
Wednesday: after a filling breakfast at our hotel, we set off for our one-hour drive to Kandersteg, where we would be hiking the popular (and extremely scenic) Oeschinen Lake
Lake Oeschinen is a Unesco World Heritage Site and considered by many to be the most beautiful mountain lake in the Alps. Its stunning turquoise color is the result of the glacial streams that feed into it from the surrounding ten-thousand-foot peaks of Blüemlisalp, Oeschinenhorn, Fründenhorn, and Doldenhorn.
The lake itself sits at an elevation 5,177 ft, and is up to 184 feet at its deepest point.
To get to our starting point for the hike, we took a gondola from Kandersteg to the top station. The gondola ride took about 10 minutes and offered beautiful views of the valley below. From there we had a short hike to the trailhead to begin the roughly five-mile Oeschinensee Panorama Hike loop which, if hiked clockwise, begins on the western end of the lake, winds you high up along the north side offering amazing views, and then begins descending on the east end of the lake, loops back and follows a lakeside trail to the paved path which returns you to the gondola.
The trail was well-maintained and the hike up was relatively easy though it does feature 1,500 feet of elevation gain. Even with clouds shrouding most of the surrounding peaks the views were spectacular. The trail was fairly busy (likely due to its easy accessibility) but not obnoxious. Near the east end of the lake, where you make the turn and start heading back down, we stopped by a small rustic cafe to enjoy a few beers, take in the views, and listen to the wandering cow bells.
The hike back down winds along the lake as it decreases in elevation and definitely became more crowded with hikers, swimmers, and visitors exploring the lake in rented rowboats.
After our hike we made the drive back to our hotel in Grindelwald, cleaned up, and enjoyed dinner on the outdoor patio of the restaurant at our hotel.
Thursday: with the perfect forecast in store, we decided to make this the day for paragliding, which is very popular in Switzerland. We booked our flights through Paragliding Jungfrau. The outfit is based out of Grindelwald and flies you high over the valley, offering breathtaking views of the Eiger Northface and the numerous snowcapped peaks of the Jungfrau Region.
We met our pilots at the bottom station of Firstbahn and took the gondola (separate charge) up to First Mountain (7,000 feet), where we would take off. After a short introduction, we clipped in, ran a few steps down a hillside, and found ourselves airborne with views of the mountain range, numerous waterfalls, and the beautiful Grindelwald Valley. The flight lasted about 25 minutes and ranged from serene to heart pumping (when my pilot asked if I wanted to do "rollercoasters" and I answered yes).
From the landing field at Bodmi it was a short walk back to the bottom station of Firstbahn. This was certainly one of the highlights of our trip and something we would recommend if you enjoy flying. The views were tough to beat.
Zermatt:
Thursday afternoon: after our paragliding adventure we packed up and began the two-and-a-half-hour drive to Zermatt, where we would be staying at the beautiful, family-run Hotel Hemizeus & Iremia Spa. Hotel Hemizuess is located in the idyllic southern part of Zermatt and features unobstructed panoramic views of the famous Matterhorn, which first drew visitors to the area in the 1860s.
Zermatt, arguably the most famous mountain town in the world, sits at around 5,300 feet and is car-free, with old-fashioned brown chalets and winding alleys. It lies in southern Switzerland’s Valais canton, at the upper end of Mattertal only about six miles from the Theodul Pass bordering Italy, and at the foot of Switzerland's highest peaks. Its famous main street, Bahnhofstrasse, is lined with boutique shops, hotels, and restaurants.
Located high in the mountains, Zermatt has upheld its ban on combustion vehicles since the 1960s. The only way to arrive is by train, taxi, or helicopter. If you're driving through Switzerland, as we were, you can find paid garage parking in the nearby town of Täsch and take the shuttle to Zermatt (our garage transported us to an area where we were picked up by a small shuttle from our hotel and taken into town). Once in town we walked to all of our destinations.
The Zermatt area is legendary amongst mountaineers: the Haute Route, a challenging international route that takes several days to complete, leads from Mont Blanc to Zermatt. Nearly 250 miles of hiking trails lead through and out of the Matter Valley, including the mule traders' trails, which date back to the 13th century, and the region is home to 38 of the 54 Swiss summits over 13,000 feet in altitude.
The original three hotels, the Monte Rosa, the Mont Cervin, and Zermatterhof, initially constructed to accommodate visiting climbers, are all still open today. Many people still travel here every year to climb the Matterhorn, but that's a route for serious alpinists – in fact three people died on the peak the week before we arrived.
Zoning is strict in Zermatt, and the small town still includes protected original settler buildings that are hundreds of years old. Almost every structure fits the chalet style of architecture, and the pedestrianized main street is perfect for daytime or evening strolling and shopping and is lined with numerous dining options, all with spectacular views of the Matterhorn.
Zermatt’s character is felt in its alpinist roots, and because it is "sportier," with high-end outdoor shops instead of fashion boutiques, it attracts a crowd more interested in doing things and seeing things than being seen, though you can still buy a Rolex or Patek Phillippe on the main drag.
In fact, while we were in town, the famous (and challenging) Zermatt Marathon was being run, drawing elite athletes from around the world. The Zermatt Marathon is the alpine running challenge par excellence and at the same time one of the most demanding marathon routes in Europe. It begins in the deepest valley in Switzerland in St. Niklaus and finishes on the Riffelberg or Gornergrat, .
On Thursday evening we walked into town and had dinner at the very quirky, but very delicious and enjoyable Le Chalet da Giuseppe, an experience I highly recommend.
Friday: for Friday we had planned a popular hike with views of the Mattehorn called the Five Lakes Walk. This 6.8-mile trail is classed as moderate and was a top recommendation for the area. As the name implies, it takes you on a winding tour of five alpine lakes, Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee, and Leisee, and offers numerous views of the famous peak along the way, as well as ample opportunities for photographs.
We got an early start and were rewarded with beautiful views and slightly smaller crowds (though still fairly busy) at the first lake. Once leaving the first lake the views became less and less beautiful (the last lake is basically a holding pond), and the temperatures were well into the 90's with very little shade. Aside from the views of the Matterhorn (and the classic "reflection photo" at Stellisee) this hike was our least favorite among the many we undertook for the week. It's worth seeing, but definitely not one of our top picks from the trip.
After our hike we moseyed back to our hotel and lounged in the shade, reading books and sipping drinks before getting cleaned up and heading back into to town for dinner at Grampis, another fun and unique Italian eatery located on the main strip of Bahnhofstrasse.
Saturday: Saturday morning we slept in, and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at our hotel before bidding adieu to Zermatt and begining our travel to our final destination, Lucerne.
Lucerne is a beautiful and bustling city in central Switzerland, in the German-speaking portion of the country. With a population of approximately 82,000 people, Lucerne is the most populous city in Central Switzerland, and a nexus of economics, transportation, culture, and media in the region. The city's urban area consists of 19 municipalities and towns with an overall population of about 220,000 people.
Known for its preserved medieval architecture, and owing to its location on the shores of Lake Lucerne, and its outflow, the river Reuss, and laying within sight of the mounts Pilatus and Rigi in the Swiss Alps, Lucerne has long been a popular destination for tourists. Its colorful Altstadt (Old Town) is bordered on the north by the nearly 3,000-foot Museggmauer (Musegg Wall), a 14-century rampart. The iconic, flower-laden Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge), built in 1333, links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River's right bank
In Lucerne we had booked a room at the historic (1443) Hotel Zum Rebstock, located across the street from the lake in the center of Old Town. After checking in to our third-floor room (that had VERY low ceilings) we enjoyed appetizers and beer under the umbrellas on the patio before setting out to the explore the city including a tour of a 14-century church and monastery, a stroll along the lake, crossing the famous Chapel Bridge, visiting the Musegg Wall, and touring through the sites of Old Town. The lakeside views and old architecture was beautiful, but the busy pace and large crowds were a dramatic departure from the quiet mountain life we had grown accustomed to during the earlier parts of the trip.
That evening we had dinner in the secluded, open-air garden in the backyard of our hotel, then strolled along the lake and enjoyed Gelato while we watched the lights of the city and numerous boats.
Sunday morning we were up early to make the rive back to Zurich, return our rental car, and fly home. It was tough to say goodbye, but if I'm being honest I know it was really "until next time."
A few things you should know if you go:
Driving - the country of Switzerland is relatively small and it is quite easy to travel by car. We enjoyed having our own vehicle so we could come and go as we wanted and it gave us the ability to explore various destinations each day. Switzerland also has very good rail and bus transportation for those that prefer that option. The driving (as in the U.S) is on the right-hand side of the road, which made it easier for us. We had very good cell service throughout the entire country which made navigating pretty simple (besides the time Google Maps tried to kill us), and our rental vehicle also included navigation. The parking spaces in Switzerland are extremely tight, at least by American standards, so keep that in mind, and in some places a Swiss parking app is handy to have. The roads, many of which date back hundreds of years, can also be narrow and it's a popular destination for road cyclist – something to be aware of when commuting along the narrow roadways and switchbacks over the mountain passes.
Lodging - a couple things to keep in mind with lodging in Switzerland. First, the majority of accommodations (all places actually) do not have air conditioning. All of the rooms we stayed in instead featured tip-open or crank-out windows (no screens) and some type of fan. For the most part this was not an issue because, like most mountain towns, the temperatures in the evening drop to very comfortable and even cool. That being said, our last night in Lucerne was quite warm in our third-floor room. Also be aware that Switzerland's power outlets can be slightly different than other parts of Europe and some universal adaptors may work while others may not. We purchased a power adapter specifically for Switzerland for $15 via Amazon and it worked very well.
Language - The four national languages of Switzerland are German, French, Italian, and Romansh, with about 60% of the population speaking German. Embarrassingly my mastery of foreign languages goes about as far as the four B's (beer, beach, and bathroom) in Spanish. Fortunately for us nearly all of the customer-facing workers we interacted with spoke very good English and were extremely gracious and helpful. Additionally many of the signs, menus, and apps were also offered in English.
Food - Swiss cuisine is a combination of French, German, and Northern Italian food. We primarily found German and Italian options, and while we enjoyed all of the food while in country, it is likely not a destination we would travel to specifically for the dining. Unlike in the U.S. water in all restaurants comes at a price (and is offered still or sparkling), however Switzerland offered a number of very good beers and wines that were quite affordable. Tipping is not customary in Switzerland, but we often did anyway (some habits die hard). Also, as it relates to paying, it's important to know that Switzerland only accepts Swiss francs (or credit cards).
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